So.... I'm in Krakow.

I've been on the road for 3 weeks already-- flew to Finland, ferried to Estonia, trained it to Latvia, bussed it to Lithuania, and endured a long train ride all the way down to Krakow...

and landed in the midst of an incredible community activation "Budziene Wiosny" (Waking Spring) parading through the centre of the Old Town, and being swept up in the literal whirlwind of the inspiring Zywa Pracownia group.

Now, a day of recovery, as the grey cold weather keeps me indoors, and my companion of the last 48 hours has left and headed out on the rest of her journey (more on that later!)

This is a long overdue post, to begin sharing what I'm up to, and to capture some of the essence of what I've been experiencing on my journey.

I've had every intention to 'blog' along the way, every step having offered me up so much inspiration and new knowledge, but though I've been journalling and reading and reflecting lots, I've had zero desire to punch out keys at a computer screen.

Your comments will likely help me stay motivated to do the arduous work of organising and articulating myself more clearly, so thank you, in advance, for reading along.

As I sit down to write this, I've already been interrupted twice by air raid alerts on my phone, since I've already downloaded the air alert app for Ukraine on my phone, and pre-emptively put in my next location (which will be Lviv). It's unnerving, and especially out of context. Though the war is very near, a very real yet imaginary border provides protection here. I have been much closer to "the aggressor" already on this trip- actually, where I first went in east Finland, was closest to the border, and possibly the furthest east one can now be in free Europe, not counting parts of central-eastern Ukraine still holding on. That imaginary line somewhere in the forest served to keep us safe there somehow too.

I didn't set out to write about the war, but it is the backdrop to everything, and it is a strange contrast, or even companion, on this trip, to the other threads I'm following, that keep me coming back here: culture- folk culture, the traditions of song, and dance, and craft and ritual that have lived here, and almost disappeared in many cases, and are also being brought back to life. War has almost always been alongside...

So what of these things and my journey here?

Well, firstly for those that don't know, I'm travelling for three months in Europe, funded by a grant, (and myself ;) to futher pursue and develop my skills as a folk artist, and explore new horizons; (take a break from my work directing the Kosa Folk Arts org., and give myself space and time to reassess what I want to do moving forward)

Last year, I applied for and received a grant through the Shevchenko Foundation of Canada (REACH mentorship grant) to pursue mentorship and further study in "solomo-pletinnya", the craft of plaiting and working with straw.

I'm taking time this spring, to deepen my fluency with straw as a material, and not only gain more basic skills in this field, but also spend extended time with masters of the craft, to soak up their unique wisdom and expertise, and have the time and space to experiment under their guidance. I'll be studying with master Mariia Kravchuk and Mariia Ivanyshyn in Ukraine, and at Serfenta in Poland.  Along the way, I'm keeping my eyes open for all manner of plaiting and weaving and seeking to learn as much as I can.

I've already been encountering straw everywhere! And willow weaving of course, and birchbark weaving in the north and cattails... And I'm so looking forward to more and more :)

The "Budzienne Wiosny" Waking of Spring in Krakow, led by Żywa Pracownia "Pucheroki" troupe.

It's a great privilege to be here right at this time, and I'm so grateful for the freedom to travel, and the freedom to enjoy this mentorship grant.

It's been an incredibly packed and colourful time amidst a backdrop of the greyness of a slow spring...meeting so many wonderful folklorists, folk singers, ritualists, makers... seeing spring rituals in action, crafts everywhere!

The highly decorative artisan made "palms" or "willow wands" they sell in Krakow for Palm Sunday blessing. Rynek Glowny- Main Square.

I do so want to show you all the wonderful things I've seen, but that will take time, and so I drop just a couple of teasers here, so I can publish this, and be off to catch some of the St. Joseph spring fair in the main square on my last day in Krakow. I promise to share all about it. Stay tuned!

https://video.wixstatic.com/video/05433b_e8eb007e80bf483ab16fa7ea91c1ba65/1080p/mp4/file.mp4

catching OrkiestraCzarnePiora ("Black Feather" Orkestra) at the St. Joseph Fair

Some shots of the pre-Easter fair.

"Zapikanki" ready for toasting :)

painted icons on reclaimed and driftwood

March 30, Krakow, Poland.